Brda, the Slovenia wine region that you need to visit now!
Did you know that Slovenia is one of the major wine producers in Europe? Probably not. Who can blame you? A small country bordered by a giant wine producer like Italy could not stand the comparison. However, located near the Italian border, the Goriška Brda wine region, called Brda colloquially is also dubbed Slovenia's Tuscany, has built up a reputation for producing some of the finest wines in the country.
Let’s take a deeper look at one of the best wine-tasting experiences we had in our life! This guide will give complete insights into where to eat and drink in the Slovenia wine region. Almost all the wine in the country is consumed domestically. In other words, you need to visit Slovenia to taste their wines!
So, what are you waiting for?
Brda Region & its attractions
Goriska Brda, located at the Italian border, is mostly cultivated with vineyards and orchards. “Brda" which means hills is Slovenian and is a good name for the region as it is characterized by sparse small villages perched on top of rolling hills and miles and miles of vineyards. The panoramic roads connecting the vineyards and the villages are absolutely stunning.
The main town of the region is Dobrovo with its castle as one of its main attractions. The castle dates back to the 17th century and is built in the Renaissance style. The major rooms are the Hall of Knights and Hunter’s room. Nowadays, the castle is used for different cultural events, exhibitions and weddings. This is not the only castle in the region, Vipolže castle, was a hunting mansion in its heydays. Today it is the most beautiful Renaissance villa in Slovenia. Now, the castle holds cultural and business events. If you like visiting churches, then the gothic church of the Holy Cross will not disappoint you.
Šmartno is a little fortified medieval village where you can climb to the top of the Gonjače Tower to admire the scenery. This tower had been used by fascist soldiers during WWII, helping them monitor the mountains. Now, the tower is a monument of peace to the fallen soldiers of Italy and Slovenia during the world wars. The tower is 23 meters high and has 144 steps, this will be the perfect exercise for leg day. From the top, you can enjoy the view from the Julian Alps, the regions of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Vipava Valley and the Adriatic Sea. If you are lucky with the weather you can even see the beautiful Venice.
For hike lovers, you can embark on the Alpe Adria Trail. The trail takes you through wineries, orchards and small villages. This is definitely the best way to taste your way through the region sampling the best ingredients. The complete trail is circa 750 km and is divided into 43 stages it starts in the mountains of Austria and ends in Italy. Another hiking suggestion will be the Walk of Peace trail at Sabotin Hill. This was an important battle point in World War One. The hill has caverns, trenches, defence positions, shelters and warehouses, now the area holds a rich cultural and natural heritage along the former Isonzo front. The last hiking recommendation is Gradnik Trail. The trail is around 5km and is dedicated to the Slovene poet, Alojz Gradnik. It starts in Dobrovo and ends in Medana.
If you like eerie and abandoned villages, then Slapnik should be on your list.
If you like to bike on bucolic trails then Brda will for sure make you fall for its charms. There are 280km of cycling routes.
Wine Tasting
Winemaking comes from antiquity times, there are traces dating back to the pre-Roman Empire. Brda is located in the Primorska wine-growing region which stretches from Goriška Brda on its western side, to the Vipava Valley, Karst and Slovenian Istria on its southern side.
The typical wines in the area are Rebula (Ribolla Gialla) and Friulano, similar to Tokai. These types of grapes account for around 25% of total wine production. The region also has Pinot Grigio, Refošk, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Malvasia Istriana, Modra Frankinja (Blaufränkisch) and Pinot Noir as grape varieties. The unique Mediterranean climate produces wines with high minerality which have led to multiple awards compared to the other Slovenian wine-growing areas. CNN and Lonely Planet put Brda in the top undiscovered wine regions.
Roughly 75% of the wine production in the whole country is dedicated to white wines. The wines are fresh and perfectly balanced between fruity and acidity. Goriška Brda and Primorska is not the only Slovenian wine regions, there is also Vipava Valley, Kras and Slovenska Istria near Piran. All of these wine regions are worth the detour. Podravje wine region is the biggest in the country with Maribor and the oldest vine in the territory.
Brda has over 300 local wines produced from over 50 growers so there are plenty of options for you to choose from. Traditionally, the Brda Rebula grapes are also used for dessert wines and the local favourite "slamno vino" or straw wine. This practice consists of drying the grapes which exacerbates the sweet notes. The wine-growing region is also known for the trendy orange wines and macerated wines that have been filling wine bars and wine cellars everywhere.
I suggest starting your oenophile day by going to the tourist information office in Dobrovo Castle and asking for the flyer that lists all the wineries hosting wine tastings for the public. In this informational document, you will also have the opening hours and the addresses of the wineries (some of the wineries do not have a website). Unfortunately, the website of the region does not have all of this information, which is why you need to go in person. Plus, the office inside in the Dobrovo Castle, is one of the sightseeing stops. The castle has Goriška Brda Wine Cellar, the largest cooperative cellar in Slovenia founded in 1957. To the visit, you can do wine tasting and purchase bottles.
Pro tip: most of the wineries are closed on Mondays, so plan your itinerary accordingly (We had very bad luck with timing our winery visits as we had the same problem in Bulgaria, sometimes you never learn from your mistakes).
Villa Mavrič is a small family-owned winery producing white and red wines for 3 generations. We had the chance to taste 3 wines, a Rebula, a Sauvignonasse and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Verdict? We took 2 bottles back home!
Edi Simčič is another popular winery. Marjan Simčič Winery also makes outstanding wines, it scores 95 points in the James Suckling rankings. They have a variety of quality wines to choose from.
Klet Brda Winery is Slovenia's largest wine cellar. As we entered the estate, the owners explained to us that their wine tasting is based on a self-tasting concept which means no explanation of the wines you are tasting and… you serve your wine yourself! They have 10 wines in total, 2 sparkling ones, 3 reds and 5 whites. All these wines were available for tasting for the cost of 12 Euros per person for an open bar of very good Slovenian wines. Definitely, a must-stop for one of the best-tasting concepts ever created!
As most of the wineries were closed, we decided to go to the other side of the border and taste some Italian wines. We drove for around 15 minutes to the neighbouring country and we stopped at the Strum Winery. The Strum family has been crafting wines for 3 generations and has recently switched to organic wines. Our favourites were the Friulano and the Ribula Giallo.
I would recommend buying bottles to bring back home since the prices are cheaper, especially if you compare them with the Canadian prices. Some of the bottles are only 4 Euros each.
If you want a wine tour that takes you from winery to winery, there is also this option. I would suggest that you check online. There are plenty of wine tourism options.
Where to eat and drink?
Kabaj Winery
Our first stop in the wine country was the Kabaj Morel winery . Located in the small town of Dobrovo, Kabaj Morel is the result of a marriage between Jean Michel Morel, a Frenchman winemaker and his wife Katja Kabaj. Together, they produce some of the best wines in Slovenia, in addition, to offer lodging and dinners at their restaurant. Unfortunately, we could not sleep at the winery because all the rooms were already booked. However, we had the privilege to try their restaurant and obviously taste their wines!
We were welcomed with a glass of sparkling wine. It was one of the best sparkling wines we have ever had and funny fact, they have been producing this sparkling for 2 years only! We enjoyed the bubbles with small bites along their magnificent views of their vines as the restaurant is located on a little hill so you can overlook all their land.
The particularity of Kabaj Morel is that they are using a skin contact maceration for all their wines giving the white wines an orange colour. The winery has been selected four times among the top 100 wineries by the world-renowned magazine Wine & Spirits.
The winery started its activities in 1993 and opened a restaurant in 2006. The restaurant offers only one menu, a 5-service which changes depending on the seasons. The food is fresh, locally sourced and prepared daily. The chef offers traditional dishes from the region with a modern touch. One of the wines we tasted was the Sivi Pinot with a hint of green apple and a touch of floral scents. The other wine that we tasted was their full-bodied Rebula which matched perfectly with their dishes.
Where to eat?
The region's cuisine is very close to its neighbouring country. Frtalja is the main dish and is extremely similar to Italian Frittata. The second must-try in the region is Fižolova mineštra, made with beans, pasta, onions, garlic, parsley, celery, bay leaves, paprika powder, olive oil and tomatoes. Finally, you cannot leave without trying Bakalca, a flavourful stew made with mutton or beef, onions, carrots, white wine, tomatoes, olive oil and herbs.
Kabaj is not the only place to stop having a bite. For lunch, we stopped at Hiša Marica, the restaurant that has a beautiful terrace on the street. The restaurant offers traditional cuisine, based on seasonal and local ingredients.
If you are looking for an afternoon snack, I suggest heading to the House of Culture in Šmartno. They offer great cakes and they also do Olive Oil tasting. The cafe also holds several art exhibitions.
Where to stay?
We decided to stay in the small medieval village of Šmartno, a tiny picturesque village in the middle of hills and vineyards.
We recommend staying in Brda 2 days, this way you have time to enjoy all the tastings and also have time to hike around. In this medieval town perched on a hill, we stopped our choice on the San Martin hotel. Located 2 minutes away from the centre of the village, this hotel offers a terrace with a breathtaking view of the hills and the vines. The rooms are very comfortable and each has its own balcony with a view on the valley. The hotel is also known for its restaurant and their wine cellar. The wine list is spectacular as one of the most reputable sommelier of the region owns the hotel. A breakfast buffet with local products and yummy croissants is included in the room price. Also, the hotel is ideally located if you like hiking. In fact, it is located on the Alpe Adria trail Path. The hotel has bike and e-bikes rentals for you to enjoy the region at its fullest. They also offer bike guided tours.
Even if you are not staying at the hotel, just come and stop for a glass of wine, the view of the Brda hills is worth it, trust me! The hotel have their own wines.
Or if you reserve in advance you could stay at the Kabaj winery as said before.
View from the San Martin Hotel located in Brda, the Slovenia wine region
Practical Information
Getting in and out
You can arrive in the region by car from Ljubljana, the trip is a 45-minute drive. Ljubljana International Airport is Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport. The airport doesn’t have many connections, so you will probably need to have a layover at a bigger destination. Another option will be to arrive in Venice and then rent a car there and drive 1,5 hours to Dobrovo. This is what we did on our Slovenia road trip. It was the cheapest option. In the surroundings, you can also visit Nova Gorica and the Vipava Valley (another wine region.)
How many days
You can do this trip as a day trip from Ljubljana, it is a 45-minute drive from the capital. Or you can stay a few days in order to relax and enjoy the different wines. I would suggest a minimum of 1 night in the region, If you are going to or from Ljubljana you will see the Solkan Bridge, the world’s longest stone arch railway bridge
Getting around
As with any wine region, the wineries can be sparse and distances can be a little treacherous. We suggest taking a car as it will make your mobility easier, however, be careful not to drink too much. If you do so, you can also bike. Since the Brda region is on the hills, biking might be a little difficult, especially after a glass or two ;)
WHEN TO GO
Slovenia has 4 seasons, so it all depends on which season you prefer to travel and the things that you like to do. Summer is great because you can go to the beach and enjoy the lakes. Fall must be beautiful with all the colours in the many parks. Slovenia is also a great place to enjoy winter and do lots of winter sports. You can also pair your visit with one of the region’s festivals. They have a multitude of festivals, from the cherry festival to open wine cellar days. You can check them all here.
SAFETY
The country is extremely safe! However, as usual, practice the usual precautions as everywhere else.
TAP WATER
You can drink your tap water. So ditch your plastic bottle and fill your reusable bottle wherever you want! Remember that in Europe you have to pay for your water at restaurants, so you better not forget your water bottle!
POWER
Slovenia uses the European standard of 220V to 230V, with a frequency of 50Hz. The plugs are characterized by two or three round pins in a row. They use plugs Type F, C and E.
CURRENCY
Slovenia has been using the Euro (€) since 2004.
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Disclaimer: we had a discount at the hotel courtesy of the Hotel San Martin. We enjoyed our dinner at the Kabaj Winery as their guests. A big thank you! All opinions are my own
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